A magical canyon full of greenery and water in Redwoods National Park.
Location: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park – Redwoods National Park
Distance: Less than 1 mile Out and Back Time: Less than 1 Hour
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation Gain: Less than 50 Feet
Season: Year Round
Foot Traffic: Heavy
Date Hiked: Saturday, July 10, 2021
Overview
This is more of a walk than a hike, but you would be hard pressed to find a better 1 mile stroll anywhere in the United States. The toughest part of hiking Fern Canyon may just be the long drive that is required to get there. The road that leads to the trailhead is an often rutted, pothole-lined, unpaved road that will require two stream crossings that sometimes may not be passable in a passenger car. However, the scenery along this slow going, sometimes narrow, 8 mile road is spectacular. At the end of the road, you will arrive at the Fern Canyon parking area. From here, you can either continue straight ahead to the Fern Canyon trail or you can take a quick walk out to the beach, where you can often spot massive Roosevelt Elk.
The Fern Canyon trail is short, but phenomenal, and something one will never forget.
While most people will hike it as a 1.1 mile loop connecting it with the James Irvine trail, I prefer to hike it as an out and back hike. I consider the best section the canyon part and prefer to enjoy this short, less than a half mile portion of the trail on the way in and just backtrack and enjoy it again on the way out. The mossy fern covered walls of the canyon and beautiful, clear water of Home Creek are memories that will surely never fade.
Reservations for Hiking Fern Canyon
This trail is incredibly popular and as of 2022, the park service has taken measures to limit the crowds and protect this area. Anyone planning to make the drive to Fern Canyon from May 15th-September 15th will need to apply online and have been issued a free Gold Bluffs Beach/Fern Canyon parking reservation. Expect crowds and, at times, noisy families/groups in the canyon. Planning your visit around non-peak hours is the obvious best way to experience this very special place.
Trail Description and My Story
As my wife and I and our infant daughter, Scout, had just begun our 4 month journey around areas of the United States, we had finally arrived at Redwoods National Park in Northern California. Although we had previously visited this park, we had never hiked the Fern Canyon trail. We were determined to get started early and made our way down the rocky, 8 mile unpaved Davison Road just after 7 AM. After nervously, but successfully navigating both stream crossings and plenty of potholes, we arrived at the Fern Canyon trailhead approximately 45 minutes later. Wanting to enjoy the trail in as much solitude as possible, we quickly headed towards the start of the trail.
In to Fern Canyon
My wife switched between carrying our 2 month old daughter Scout and putting her in her carrier on her chest. Scout was wide awake and attentive to all the new sights and sounds around her.
We started out on the well marked path and within less than a quarter mile reached the stream on Home Creek.
A trail going left marked the James Irvine trail (which is the return route, if you are doing the loop hike). We continued straight and, within a matter of moments, were transported into the magical Fern Canyon.
The lushness and beauty of the canyon was overwhelming. Ferns surrounded both sides of the canyon walls and moss and greenery seemed to be coming out of everything.
The Canyon was empty and every sound of nature was intensified. Although our feet were getting wet, makeshift boards and bridges were in place in spots to help.
The canyon section is very short and lasted less than a quarter of a mile. However, it felt significantly longer than that to me. The magnificence of Fern Canyon beckoned us to stop at every turn. We spent a significant amount of time on this short section.
Instead of heading onto the Irvine trail and looping back, we elected to turn and just backtrack the way we had just come, to enjoy the epic fern filled canyon one more time. By now a few groups were present but the canyon was still very quiet. By the time we got back to the trailhead, large families with echoing voices throughout the canyon were becoming the norm.
Summary of Fern Canyon
I was so grateful that we made it a point to do this first thing in the morning and that we were granted the opportunity to enjoy this canyon at its finest. Once back at the trailhead we decided to make the short walk towards the beach. The morning fog was still present and a massive herd of Elk were grazing in the vicinity. This trail is absolutely phenomenal and the memories of this quiet morning in this fabulous fern filled canyon will forever stick with me.
Getting to Fern Canyon
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park – Redwoods National Park
Driving Davison Road to Fern Canyon Trailhead:
- Trailers and RVs over 24 feet are prohibited on this rough dirt road. Additionally, there are two stream crossings that you will have to drive through 1.3 miles from the Fern Canyon Trailhead. Be prepared to cross the streams in your vehicle or walk the additional 1.3 miles. High clearance, 4-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended by the park service, especially in the early summer. Although I had no problem crossing the streams in my small SUV, when the streams are high, crossing can create problems.
Notes
Is This A Fee Area?
- Yes. This is a day use fee area and a pass must be acquired at the Gold Bluffs Beach kiosk. A $12 fee may be payable via check or cash (cards not accepted). America the Beautiful Passes, California State Park Annual Pass or Poppy Pass, or a current park campground reservation are also accepted. Here are the details on the National Park Services America the Beautiful Pass.
- Annual: $80
- Senior Annual: $20
- Senior Lifetime: $80
- Military Lifetime: Free
- Medically Determined Permanent Disability: Free
- 4th Graders: Free. Yes, that is right. If you are a 4th grade student you can enter all of the National Park entities for free for your entire 4th grade year, along with all children under the age of 16 in the group and up to 3 accompanying adults, or an entire car.
A free reservation is required to hike Fern Canyon:
- Reservations are required May 15th to September 15th in order to visit Gold Bluffs Beach Day-Use Area including Fern Canyon Trailhead. This is effective as of May 2022. Reservations are reserved on a first-come, first-served basis and can be reserved up until 11:59 pm (PST) the day before. The park service highly recommends booking your reservations in advance. Reservations can be made online here.
Are there restrooms at the Trailhead?
- Yes, there is a public restroom at the far end of the parking lot.
Are dogs Allowed?
- No. Dogs are prohibited in Fern Canyon and on all trails in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
Animal Awareness:
- If you are lucky enough to spot the Roosevelt Elk that frequent this area please be respectful and use common sense. Give them their space and view them from a distance. Never approach these wild animals. From May-June females will protect their fawns by kicking with their enormous front legs. In autumn, the male elk will be fighting for dominance. Their antlers or kicks can be deadly. Please protect yourself and these animals by staying out of their way and observing them from a distance.
You will get wet:
- Water shoes, hiking sandals, or a pair of shoes and socks you don’t mind getting wet are a good idea as your feet will get wet on this trail.
Please be mindful that voices echo in the canyon. To give yourself and others a better chance of seeing wildlife and a better experience, highly consider keeping your voices lower. Please pack out everything that you pack in and leave the canyon just as you found it.
